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Overnight Sleeper Trains
Dear Divine Soul,
Humble pranams.
Have you ever traveled on a train in India before? If so, then you may not need to pore over every word in this update. This article is written for the first-time visitor to India, or someone who has not travelled by train in India before.
For some people, train travel calls to mind romanticized images of the glory days of train travel, the time before air travel when railroads were the elite's choice for traveling in elegance and style. (The "Orient Express" train still carries on this tradition of elegant service on it's Mumbai route, at a price.) The truth is, though, that even if most modern day railcars have long ago lost their charm, their utility is standing the test of time. Each day approximately 20 million passengers board Indian Railways trains. Established in 1853, the Indian Railways network operates across all of India. Its 1.6 million employees make it arguably the largest commercial employer in the entire world. While Indian Railways also offers mail trains and passenger trains, the best option for lengthy travel is its air-conditioned, express train service with fewer stops and faster connections to larger cities.
If you are wondering why we will be traveling portions of our pilgrimage by train, it is a matter of expediency. The holy sites and cities we desire to visit are so far apart that it will require considerable travel. And rather than traveling long distances by day and losing our sightseeing daylight hours, we are opting to travel by night, thereby making good use of our evenings for both sleep as well as transport. Since sleeping on tour buses overnight is difficult, if not impossible, for most people, we will be traveling on express train sleeper cars. And because this will be a first-time experience for many pilgrims, there are a few pieces of information that will be helpful for you to know.
First, expect the train station in Delhi to be crowded and appear somewhat chaotic. Though the trains generally run on schedule, the cacophony of train engines, travelers scrambling on and off trains, announcement bells, beggars, and "touts" hawking their wares can be distracting. Still, it is very important that you keep your focus. (Pickpockets like to take advantage in chaos, so instead be aware of what's going on around you, keep your money and your passport in a secure place, keep your hand on your luggage, and your eyes on your teammates.)
Before we get onto the train you will be advised of your assigned train car number and your berth number. Traveling companions and roommates have been booked into berths near each other. The sleeper cars have berths that fold up during the day to make room for seating, and pull down at night to provide a padded bench-type bed surface for sleeping. These berths should be readied in position for us when we arrive. Berths are often arranged four (or six) to a common compartment on one side of the train, with a little curtain which can be used to provide a tiny bit of privacy from the corridor. On the other side of the corridor are single berths, and all berths are set up much like a bunk bed, with "upper," "lower," and sometimes, "middle" berths. If you find that you have been assigned to an upper berth and your personal condition does not allow it, do not worry since it will be easy to get a lower berth. Try to trade berths with a fellow pilgrim in our group, or notify your team leader who can help you find a lower berth. There will always be someone willing to trade with you if it is necessary.
When our train arrives into the station there may be only a few, precious moments for us to board. While other passengers exit the train, someone from our pilgrimage team will try to ascertain which train cars have our spaces in them, because it is relatively easier to transport our luggage alongside the train on the platform than to board at the far end of a train and carry one's bags from coach to coach, searching for our berths.
It is critical that we stay together! As soon as you hear instructions from our group to board the train, do so immediately! Even if you get onboard far from your exact coach, it is much better to be on the train when it leaves the station than to be left behind. Grab your luggage and hoist it up to the landing platform of the train car's entry door, then climb up the steep rugged metal steps into the train car. (This is when you'll be glad you packed light!) Once aboard, turn and step into the interior of the train car, making room for the people behind you to enter the car also. If you need help lifting your luggage, ask someone in our group before the train arrives. (They'll be glad you packed light, too!)
[Note: In the event that you miss our train at the station, immediately contact the pilgrimage team at one of the emergency telephone numbers that you will receive at the mandatory Pilgrimage Orientation Meeting in Delhi on November 15 at the Ramakrishna Mission's Sarada Auditorium. Missing a train means forfeiting your pre-paid train ticket and making your own arrangements to rendezvous with the pilgrimage group as soon as possible. First class waiting rooms provide shelter but you will need to purchase a valid ticket to use this service, and sometimes tickets sell out weeks in advance. Stay with our group and board the train easily before its scheduled departure.]
After you have boarded the train, find your way to your berth number that you were given. Reservations are also posted in each coach. As a courtesy to your berth neighbors, as quickly as possible organize your bed and stow your luggage for the night. You may use the bed linens provided by the railway or your own personal sleepsack or sleeping bag. Pillows are provided only on some trains and train cars. So if you prefer always sleeping with a pillow, either bring a travel pillow for your personal use, or create a pillow by folding up some of your clothes or a shawl. It is wise to secure your luggage to an immovable rail by the use of a heavy duty cable and lock which can stand sentry over your valuables while you sleep. It is best not to put anything in your bags' side pockets that can be reached easily. You may feel more comfortable sleeping with your passport, money, and credit card in a secure traveler's wallet/pouch under the clothing you wear to travel. Note that this is a public sleeping situation and we will sleep on trains in public attire, that is, in our travel clothes so you will do best to wear comfortable clothing on the nights we travel by train.
You will find private toilet facilities, both Western and Eastern, on each sleeper coach through the door at the end of the corridor. These facilities are marked "WC" (abbreviation for the rather British term, "Water Closet"). If you find that any of these facilities require attention, please notify the janitor on special duty for our group. For Western toilet goers, it is best to bring your own tissue, disposable wipes, soap and towel as these are not provided. It helps the countryside to have all toilet articles be biodegradable, as the toilets jettison refuse directly to the train track below. This design is the reason that it is customary to NOT use the trains' toilets while the train is parked at a station. The toilet facilities provide non-potable water (i.e., NOT for drinking) that may be used for washing hands. Outside the WC you may find a very small sink that many travelers use for washing hands and face, or brushing their teeth. It is best to use bottled water for brushing teeth here.
Get to bed as early as possible in order to get adequate rest. You may find it helpful to use ear plugs and an eye mask to block out unwanted distractions when it is time to sleep. If you find your have trouble sleeping it is an ideal opportunity for private prayer and meditation. Dear Baba Prajnananandaji has told stories of his early travel on the trains in India...when he heard the steamy "chug-chug-chug-chug!" sound of the train's wheels on the track, in his mind he thought of it as calling, "God-God-God-God!" Remember that we are traveling with this God-realized Master of Kriya Yoga, and try with your imagination, and your heart, to hear God's whisper to you throughout the night. His voice is there if you are but open to it.
In the morning, rise well before our scheduled arrival time, taking care of your morning toiletries and modest, make-shift wash-ups. Until we get to our next lodging accommodations, a wet washcloth or disposable wipe in the privacy of a WC will prove the best substitute for a bath or shower. Thus ready to face a new day, unlock your luggage and prepare to exit the train at our appointed station. The train will stop for only a short while so we need to be quick about our orderly departure. Ask for help if you need it; help your fellow pilgrims when possible. Once in the train station, continue to be vigilant about your belongings as we walk to our awaiting tour buses.
At this point, congratulations will be in order for all first-time Indian Railway sleeper passengers. Well done! You will have successfully completed your first Indian sleeper train experience.
We trust this article gives you the helpful information you need to be prepared for this portion of our journey. For more information you may find helpful video footage on Indian Railways sleeper cars on the Internet.
In loving service,
The pilgrimage team